Mountain Biking Skills 2

 

Braking technique

 

It may seem counter-intuitive but good braking technique will actually make you a faster rider.  So how is that possible?  By scrubbing off speed at the right times and in the right manner, you can carry more speed out of the turns.  Not only that but with good technique comes an increase in confidence in your ability to scrub speed when it really matters.

 

Which brake for me?

 

There are two distinctive types of brake for mountain bikes; rim brakes and disc brakes.  Disc brakes are becoming more and more prevalent on bikes with good reason.  Firstly they operate out of the main contact points for dirt and grime, namely the tyres and subsequently the rims.

 

This means they are subject to less variation from the elements on the braking surface (the disc itself and the pads).  In turn this means more consistent braking for you, the rider.  The pads on disc brakes last longer than on rim brakes and another benefit is that removing and re-installing wheels becomes much simpler as the wheel simply slots into place without any fiddly cable adjustments.

 

Rim brakes are not to be excluded as an option, however.  Although not as quite as consistent as disc brakes, rim brakes, especially ‘V-Style’ brakes offer a wealth of power in all but the filthiest of conditions.  Rim brakes are far cheaper to produce than disc brakes and because of this are often provided on more budget mountain bikes.

 

Rim brakes are also much lighter than disc brakes, helping to keep the all important weight down which in turn aids off-road enjoyment.  There are far fewer moving parts in rim brakes to accommodate and running them does not require the use of hubs built to take the disc.

 

Our recommendation is that if you can afford to run disc brakes then do so as the benefits far outweigh any weight penalty.

 

Lever Position

 

We covered lever position off in the last article so if you missed out or need reminding, find the article here.

 

In brief, the principles covered are:

-          ensure your lever is in-line with your arm so your wrist isn’t cocked out of position

-          adjust the reach of the blade so it sits at the perfect position on the bar for your finger length

-          position the brake clamp on the bar so you can access the end of the blade with your braking finger(s)

-          adjust the brake so that it doesn’t pull right to the bar and trap your hand.  You should be able to totally lock the wheel out and still have room to pull the lever in further

 

The Actual Technique

 

The first rule of braking is to do it early and with anticipation.  As you’re looking ahead down the trail and studying upcoming obstacles and corners you can assess the best point to apply the brakes, if required at all.  Unfortunately this kind of knowledge comes with experience.  Some of the best riders in the world still work hard on brake timing and to some it can become an obsession.

 

What we’re trying to develop here is a technique that will have you riding more fluidly and efficiently leaving you feeling fresher for longer on the bike and riding not only quicker, but safer.

 

The points to watch for:

 

This element of braking is so fundamental that it needs to be reiterated: Look ahead and study the trail in front of you.  Not just a few metres, but right up the trail.


Use just one finger.  Modern brakes are plenty powerful enough.  This leaves you with plenty of grip on the bar.

 

Do your braking before your obstacle or corner.  Assess the trail ahead of you and scrub your speed off before you get there, particularly with corners.  You don’t want to be panic braking halfway round a corner, as this unsettles the bike and your tyres already have enough to do keeping you planted to the ground.

 

Feather your brakes.  A smooth, progressive, squeeze of the lever is far more effective than hauling away at it.  A progressive squeeze will allow your tyres to grip the terrain beneath them and not skid across it, which will not slow you down but potentially lead to a crash.  Skidding is also highly destructive to the trails.

 

Assess your terrain.  Different ground types offer different levels of grip.  Slick wet grass will have greatly reduced grip compared to dry grass for example.  Much like sand and fine gravel will also demand a lighter touch at the lever than compared to compact soil.

 

Don’t be afraid of your front brake.  It is a misconception that the safest form of braking is through the rear brake.  No, it won’t lead to you throwing yourself over the bars if you grab a fistful but it also isn’t the most effective brake for stopping.  Approximately 70% of your stopping power comes from the front as this is where your weight shifts under braking.

 

Following on from the previous point, use both your brakes in unison to slow down with a bias to the front, being careful not to apply too pressure to either brake.  Too much on the front could lead to either the front wheel skidding or, if the ground is grippy, throwing you over the bars and too much rear will induce skidding.

 

Here’s a great tip: to asses the amount of grip available on certain terrain, pull the rear brake and ‘feel’ how quickly it starts to skid.  This will give you an idea as to how much grip there is and thus how much front brake to apply.

 

If you really need to scrub some speed and the trail ahead has interspersed obstacles, attempt your braking in the safer spots and try to carry your excess speed over the obstacles.  Your bike performs best over rough terrain when the brakes aren’t applied.  Of course, sometimes you’re taken unawares and braking in these trickier sections is unavoidable.

 

Practice.  Practice.  Practice.  Braking is an art form and it is only experience and practice that will teach you how much brake to pull, at what front and rear bias, at what time, where and when.  You may have a couple of spills in the process but always ride safe, wear protective gear and, most importantly of all, have fun.